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How to Make Lotion at Home

April 15, 2024 by Ashley Adamant Leave a Comment

This post may contain affiliate links. Read full disclosure here.

Making your own lotion at home is a fun, cost-effective option for creating a skincare product that’s specifically formulated to meet your skin’s unique needs. In this comprehensive guide, you’ll find all the information you need to choose a formulation based on your skin type as well as detailed instructions for creating a moisturizing lotion free from irritating or abrasive ingredients.

Natural Homemade Lotion
Natural Homemade Lotion

Homemade beauty products give you the peace of mind of knowing exactly what’s going onto your skin, and homemade lotion is no different.

While you can make salves, body butter, and lotion bars…sometimes there’s just no beating old-fashioned skin-nourishing lotion.  It’s a bit trickier to make than the others, because it contains both oils and water to hydrate and condition your skin. 

Having the right lotion recipe is key to success, but fear not, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to make your own lotion at home!

What is Lotion?

Lotion is a skincare product that is specifically used to moisturize and soften the skin. Lotions and creams are both emulsions of oil and water. Lotion is made using more water than oil (in varying ratios) and cream, with its heavier texture, contains more oil than water. Because of its high water content, lotion is both lightweight and exceptionally moisturizing.

To prevent the ingredients from separating, an emulsifying wax is first melted and then mixed with the oil and water. From there, extras such as shea butter, essential oils, and vitamin E can be added to personalize your lotion and target specific skin concerns. 

This lotion recipe can be formulated to support a wide variety of skin types, including dry, acne-prone, oily, mature, and sensitive skin. It can be applied all over the body or used exclusively on the face. Therein lies the fun of making your own lotion and homemade beauty products in general—the sky’s the limit in terms of supporting ingredients (and all at a much lower cost than pricey store-bought skincare products). 

One thing to keep in mind is that lotion has a relatively short shelf life—which is a good case for making small batches at a time. Unlike salves and balms, which don’t contain water, lotion is prone to spoilage over time. For this reason, it should be stored in the refrigerator and used within a month’s time (I’ll get into this further down, where I’ll also be sharing tips for prolonging the shelf life of your lotion).

DIY Lotion
DIY Lotion

Ingredients for Lotion

The basic ingredients for DIY lotion are simple: you need oil, water, an emulsifier, and a preservative. As you’ll see below, there are many options to explore when it comes to each of these umbrella categories.

Choosing Oil for DIY Lotion

When you’re choosing an oil to include in your homemade lotion there are a couple of factors to consider. First, where will the lotion be applied? Depending on if it’s being used on the face or the body, you might want an oil that’s on the lighter side or one that’s super-rich. Do you have any known skin sensitivities, particularly any that can have an adverse effect on acne, rosacea, eczema, or otherwise blemish-prone skin? These are important questions to consider, as some oils are more likely to cause comedogenic issues which can lead to clogged pores (while others are known for the positive effects they have on skin that is prone is breakouts). 

The oils I’ve included in this section contain a wide range of nutrients, all of which benefit the skin in myriad ways. Whichever oil you end up using, make sure it’s one that makes your skin feel hydrated and pampered.

Apricot kernel oil

Apricot kernel oil is an effective yet non-greasy moisturizer with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Apricot kernel oil is particularly well-suited to mature, dry, and sensitive skin. Thanks to its impressive vitamin A and E content, apricot kernel oil can also be used to make a lotion that both softens and fades scars and stretch marks. Apricot kernel oil is also a popular choice for dark under eye circles or when the skin around tired eyes needs brightening up up. 

Argan oil

Argan oil is a rich source of vitamins A and E in addition to having impressive anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits. Argan oil is pressed from the nuts of the argan tree, which grow in southern Morocco.  A good choice for normal, oily, mature, damaged, and acne-prone skin types, argan oil is a common ingredient in rash and wound-healing preparations. Lotion made with argan oil can also be soothing to those who experience regular breakouts, not only does it help prevent clogged pores, it also regulates skin cell turnover thanks to its gentle exfoliating abilities.  

Avocado oil

Another oil that’s an excellent source of vitamins A and E, avocado oil is also rich in vitamins B5, B6, and C as well as magnesium—a mineral that has proven muscle-relaxing properties when rubbed into the skin. Avocado oil is ultra-moisturizing base for any lotion, making this anti-aging and anti-inflammatory oil a good option for those with combination, damaged, and otherwise depleted skin types. When avocado oil is applied topically it may help prevent acne as well as reduce signs of hyperpigmentation and skin damage.

Coconut oil

Coconut oil is a classic addition to lotion and other skincare products for many reasons: it’s an excellent moisturizer, it’s high in vitamins A and K, and it has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. If you want to make a lotion that targets normal, inflamed, or damaged skin types, choose coconut oil. Skip the coconut oil if you have acne-prone skin—for some skin types coconut oil can worsen breakouts.

Grapeseed oil

Grapeseed oil is packed with vitamin E and omega-6 fatty acids, which helps it absorb into the skin more efficiently than other oil types. Lotion made with grapeseed oil will not only moisturize your skin, it also helps tighten pores while reducing the appearance of scars and stretch marks. Lotion made with grapeseed oil is particularly well-suited for acne-prone, combination, or oily skin types. 

Jojoba oil

If you’ve ever had a professional massage, there’s a good chance you’ve already benefited from the moisturizing properties of jojoba oil. Packed with vitamins E and B, lotion made with jojoba oil is ideal for those with acne-prone, combination, and oily skin. In the skincare industry, jojoba oil is prized for its ability to unclog hair follicles, which means it may be helpful if you suffer from folliculitis or any other ailment that is caused by clogged follicles. 

Olive oil

Olive oil is a good source of vitamins E and K, both nutrients that have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties (attributes that are known to help lessen signs of aging skin). Because olive oil is such an effective moisturizer, it’s best-suited to lotion that has been made for dry, mature, or combination skin types. For topical application, choose an olive oil that’s been labelled 100% pure olive oil. If in doubt, check the ingredients—olive oil should be the only ingredient, avoid those with added filler oils.

Peach kernel oil

Peach kernel oil is known for its ability to quickly absorb into the skin, making it a favorite choice for skincare companies and DIY beauty product enthusiasts alike. A good option for those with sensitive and dry skin, peach kernel oil is packed with vitamin E and omega fatty acids, which leaves skin feeling pampered and supple. Lotion made with peach kernel oil is particularly effective when applied under the eyes to reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness.

Rosehip seed oil

A potent option for acne-prone skin types, rosehip seed oil is a natural source a retinoid called trans retinoic acid. When applied topically, retinoids help regulate the production of skin cells (they work by increasing cell turnover, acting as a gentle exfoliant) and regular use can result in brighter, less inflamed skin with few blackheads and breakouts. And speaking of inflammation, lotion made with rosehip seed oil works exceptionally well to reduce symptoms of eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, and dermatitis. Finally, with consistent application, rosehip seed oil is thought to reduce hyperpigmentation from sun damage.

Sweet almond oil

Not to be confused with bitter almond oil, which has an intense, marzipan-like aroma and is toxic to injest by mouth, sweet almond oil is mostly scentless and a common ingredient in both skin and haircare products. Sweet almond oil is an abundant source of vitamins A and E. As with rosehip seed oil, sweet almond oil contains vitamin A in the form of retinoids, which leaves the skin feeling soft and luminous with daily use. Sweet almond oil is perhaps most famously included in skincare products that are intended to help lighten and fade scars and stretch marks.  

Essential oils

Essential oils have a much different intended use than the neutral carrier oils listed above. When included in a recipe for lotion, they’re used in relatively minuscule amounts—a single batch of lotion needs barely a gram to make an impact. Popular essential oils for homemade skincare products include rose, lavender, rosemary, patchouli, and ylang ylang.

Emulsifier Options

Lotion is made with oil and water, two substances that infamously don’t mix well together. In order to blend the two, something called an emulsifier is needed. An emulsifier is a substance used to to stabilize emulsions (in other words, keeps tiny oil droplets uniformly spread throughout the water or water-adjacent base liquid). It also contributes to the lotion’s final consistency, giving the finished lotion in a rich and creamy—but not too heavy—feel.

Some factors to consider when choosing an emulsifier include whether or not you prefer a vegan option, the specific lotion formulation you’re following, and the choice between adding the emulsifier during the water stage or with the oil and water together in the same container. 

Emulsifying wax

Emulsifying wax, which is sometimes referred to as e-wax, is a popular emulsifier choice for homemade lotions. When sourcing emulsifier wax, look for proprietary product names like BTMS-50, Emulsimulse, Olivem 1000, or Polax—you’ll find the exact chemical makeup is different depending on the formula you choose. Generally speaking, emulsifying wax is made from fatty acids and esters. In addition to stabilizing the ingredients in homemade lotion, it also contributes to the texture and feel of the finished result. 

Lecithin powder

Lecithin powder is an easy-to-use emulsifier made from a variety of sources, including egg yolk, rapeseed, and cottonseed (Mountain Rose Herbs has two lecithin options, one derived from soybeans and one made from sunflower oil). 

Stearic acid

Stearic acid can be derived from both animal and vegetable fats (an important distinction if you want to make a purely plant-based lotion) and is typically sold as small, wax-like pellets. Stearic acid is a co-emulsifier, which means it improves the viscosity as well as the stability of the formulation it is added to.

Cetearyl alcohol

Another co-emulsifier, cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of fatty alcohols that produce a creamy, smooth emulsion. Because cetearyl alcohol is oil soluble, it should always be added during the oil phase/directly to the oils being used in your lotion.

Beeswax

A familiar skincare ingredient, beeswax is a good choice if you want a lotion that’s as close to unprocessed as possible. When buying beeswax, look for beeswax pellets rather than the bars or solid blocks—it’s much easier to accurately measure out tiny pellets versus big chunks of wax using a kitchen scale. 

Liquid Options

The water phase, also known as the aqueous phase, is an integral part of the lotion-making process. Because lotion is overwhelmingly made of water, the quality of the liquid used during this phase is a fairly crucial component when making your selection.

Distilled water

Any water that is included in your homemade lotion recipe should be distilled. This isn’t so much a matter of purity or personal preference, the main benefit of using distilled water is that it’s free from additives like chlorine, fluoride, and minerals which could theoretically have an effect on your finished lotion. Distilled water is inexpensive and can be purchased from drugstores or the grocery store. If distilled water isn’t an option for you don’t worry, you can still make lotion with regular tap water (and chances are, the results will be similar if not the same).

Rose water & other hydrosols

Persian grocery stores are a fantastic and often inexpensive source for hydrosols such as rosewater. In addition to rosewater, I’ve found additional scented waters including orange, lavender, rosemary, lemon verbena, chamomile, and mint—each essence gives the finished lotion a subtle, pleasant aroma. 

Aloe vera

Cooling aloe vera water or juice is a natural fit for lotions, especially those applied to sunburnt, itchy, or dry skin. Aloe vera has impressive and cooling hydrating properties for inflamed skin and can also be beneficial for those who are prone to acne or rosacea.

Colloidal oatmeal water

Why not add the proven soothing and anti-itch ingredient to lotion? Distilled water that has been used to soak oats is a no-brainer of a liquid base for lotion, especially one that’s formulated for use on dry and itchy skin. Consider thinning out oat water with another water-like substance, as pure oat water may cause the lotion to thicken to an undesired consistency. 

Herbal tea

Similar to the oatmeal soak listed above, you can also use unsweetened herbal tea (or a tisane, if you want to get technical) as a liquid base for lotions. Some of my favorite herbal tea bases to use include fresh or dried stinging nettle, calendula, or chamomile. 

Natural Preservatives for Homemade Lotion

Broad-spectrum preservatives play an important role in any given lotion’s formulation. They protect the lotion from bacteria and mold growth and extend its self life from a number of days to a number of months. Certain non-broad spectrum preservatives, of which I’ve gone into in more detail below, have specific limitations and should be used as complementary (rather than primary) options.

Commercial plant-based preservatives

These preservatives are naturally derived, broad-spectrum plant-based preservative—perfect for vegans and non-vegans alike.  Fair warning, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to order them from a commercial manufacturer or a specialist website, but by choosing a preservative that’s been tested on a large scale you can be sure of its efficacy as ingredient.

Each preservative has its own set of uses and limitations, so it’s important to carefully read the label before purchasing and using the product. You’ll find that certain preservatives work best when added to lotions (and any other skincare product) that have a particular pH range and/or temperature range. Many broad-spectrum preservatives also offer additional benefits to the skin, such as improved moisturizing or skin soothing properties. 

Some of the more commonly available and extensively tested commercial plant-based preservatives include the following:

  • Leucidal® Liquid SF*: Use a concentration of 2-4%, add at 158°F/70°C or lower; pH range of 3-8 (moisturizing properties).
  • NataPres™: Use a concentration of 0.5-2.5%, add at 122°F/50°C or lower; pH range of 2-8 (suitable for sensitive skin).
  • PhytoCide Aspen Bark: Use a concentration of 0.2-3%, add at 140°F/60°C or lower; pH range of 3-9 (evens skin texture).
  • Geogard ETC: Use a concentration of 0.6-1%, add at 113°F/45°C or lower; pH range of 3-8 (contains salicylic acid, an exfoliant).
  • Amticide Coconut: Use a concentration of 2-4%, add at 158°F/70°C or lower; pH range 3-8 (best used at pH 6 or lower).

*This preservative has been ECOCERT-approved as an organic preservative, making it appropriate for homemade or commercial organic skincare products.

Vitamin E 

Vitamin E is not considered a broad-spectrum preservative and is, therefore, not suitable as a primary preservative. However, vitamin E has antioxidant properties so it does have its uses as a preservative for oil and oil-based ingredients. I like to add a small amount of vitamin E as a nourishing add-on when making lotion, which gives it a boost of benefits for the skin while helping to extend the shelf life of the lotion.

Rosemary oil

Similar to limitations with vitamin E, rosemary oil will help prevent the growth of bacteria in oil-based ingredients but will do nothing to counteract these growths in water-based ingredients. Although it might not be an appropriate choice for a broad-spectrum preservative, rosemary oil has strong antimicrobial, antifungal, and antimicrobial properties—not to mention a beautiful pine-like, woodsy aroma. 

Alcohol & tinctures

Alcohol and tinctures (also known as herb-infused alcohol) are suitable preservatives for many types of skincare products, particularly those with astringent properties, but in order for alcohol to act as a broad-spectrum preservative in lotion it needs to make up 15% of the finished lotion’s volume. To say that would be drying would be an understatement! If there’s a tincture I think would be a great addition to homemade lotion I add it as a supplemental ingredient—any added preservation is a bonus at that point.

If you’re like me and can’t resist a deep dive into anything related to DIY skincare, I’d highly recommend this scientific exploration of natural preservatives. 

All the preservatives in the world won’t fully protect your lotion from the growth of unwanted bacteria if you begin with less-than-sterile equipment. Always sanitize glassware, whether’s it’s being used to measure ingredients or for storage. You can do this with a dishwasher or by washing the glass with soap and hot water—white vinegar can also be added to get your containers squeaky clean. Be sure to disinfect your work station before beginning, too.

Equipment for Homemade Lotion

A basic kitchen scale is a must for anyone interested in making their own skincare products. While it’s possible to find lotion recipes that are measured in cups, you’ll be able to measure out your ingredients to a much, much higher degree of accuracy if you use a scale. It’s also much simpler to tinker with recipes if you stay within the confines of any given weight measurement. Plus, a kitchen scale eliminates the need for other measuring tools—simply tare the scale each time you need to add the next ingredient.

You’ll also need some heat-proof glass jars, which are used to hold the oil and water (separately) while they are gently heated up in a water bath. Sterilizing the jars before use is recommended—simply wash them with hot soapy water or run them through the dishwasher.

Any large, wide-bottomed pot or a Dutch oven—this will be used for a water bath to slowly heat the oil and water in their separate containers.

To make sure the ingredients are fully emulsified, I like to blend them together with a stick immersion blender. Some people just use a whisk, but I like the uniformity in texture that an immersion blender gives the finished lotion.

Finally, a pack of pH test paper strips to check the final pH of your lotion and to make sure the pH matches the recommendations of your chosen preservative.

How to Make Lotion

Begin by disinfecting your workspace and sanitizing all jars and any utensils you plan on using in hot soapy water or in the dishwasher. If you want to blend the oil and water together at a later point, include a whisk or the detachable blade piece of an immersion blender in your sanitization plans.

Weigh out your choice of aqueous liquid. For the purpose of these instructions I’ll refer to it as distilled water, but you’re free to choose the type of liquid you’d like to use. For this recipe, we’re going to use 65 grams of distilled water. Measure the distilled water out in one of the sanitized jars.

In another sanitized jar, we’re going to weigh out 30 grams of oil. Many types of emulsifying wax need to be melted directly into the oil. Carefully check the label of your emulsifier and if this is the case, add 4 grams of emulsifying wax to the oil. 

Transfer the jars to a large, wide-bottomed pot or Dutch oven and fill it a couple of inches high with water, this will function as a water watch as we gently heat the ingredients. Bring the water to barely a simmer and heat the oil and water until they both reach a temperature that’s somewhere between 160°-170°F/70°-75°C—try to get each liquid as close in temperature to the other as possible.

Add the water to the oil (in this order) and whisk or blend the ingredients until the mixture has reached the desired texture. 

Allow the water, oil, and emulsifier mixture to cool down. You can use the cooldown period to check the pH of your lotion, with a pH of 5-6 being ideal for use on skin. To increase the pH, add a couple of drops of lactic acid. If the pH is lower than you’d like, add a very small amount of baking soda (remember, it’s always best to add ingredient gradually—you can always add more but it’s basically impossible to take out if you go overboard).

Once the lotion has reached a temperature of 85°F or 30°C it’s time to stir in 1 gram of preservative and any other ingredients that are sensitive to heat. If you’d like to include essential oils in the mix, you can also add 1 gram of essential oil to the lotion at this point.

Carefully decant the finished lotion to a container. For the sake of keeping your lotion as sanitized as possible, these flexible silicone tubes can’t be beaten. Not only are they perfect for travel, your fingers won’t come into contact with the remaining lotion which means bacteria has less of a chance to thrive. If you prefer to store your lotion in glass, these lidded containers fit the bill (and are pretty enough for gift-giving if you find yourself in the habit of making your own skincare products).

Homemade Lotion Variations

Once you’ve mastered the basic formula for lotion you can begin to explore other recipes, oil blends, emulsifier options, and add-ins meant to target specific skin types and concerns.

  • Warming Fall Spice Blend Lotion
  • Classic Vanilla Body Lotion
  • Lotion with Sweetgrass Hydrosol
  • Shea Butter Lotion
  • Lotion for Dry and Mature Skin with Macadamia Nut Oil

Storing Homemade Lotion

Thanks to its high water content, lotion that is made at home is considered a perishable product. If all safety precautions were taken with sanitizing equipment and with choosing appropriate ingredients, homemade lotion should last about 3 months when it’s stored away from heat and a direct source of light. While it isn’t strictly necessary to refrigerate lotion that contains natural broad-spectrum preservatives, I find that the colder temperatures can extend the shelf life of small-batch skincare products even longer.

On the other hand, if you’ve decided to make lotion without the use of preservatives or with preservatives that aren’t broad-spectrum, refrigeration is mandatory, and your lotion should be used within 1 to 2 weeks (depending on the volatility of the oils used in the recipe).

Natural Homemade Lotion
Ashley Adamant

How to Make Lotion at Home

Make this ultra-moisturizing, customizable lotion from scratch using only four ingredients.
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 10 minutes mins
Cook Time 10 minutes mins
Additional Time 10 minutes mins
Total Time 30 minutes mins
Ingredients Method

Ingredients
  

  • 65 grams distilled water or your choice of aloe vera water, rosewater or other water essence, colloidal oatmeal water, etc.
  • 30 grams neutral oil
  • 4 grams emulsifying wax
  • 1 gram of preservative
  • 1 gram essential oils optional
  • Lactic acid or baking soda to adjust pH, optional

Method
 

  1. Sanitize all pieces of equipment (jars and whisk or detachable immersion blade) using hot water and soap or the dishwasher. Disinfect your workspace and wipe down with a clean cloth.
  2. Using a kitchen scale, measure 65 grams of distilled water (or preferred liquid) into a sanitized jar. In another jar, measure out 30 grams of oil. Add 4 grams of emulsifying wax, unless the label specifies adding it at a different time in the process.
  3. Transfer the jars into a wide-bottomed, large pot or Dutch oven. To make a water bath, fill the pot with 2-3 inches of water. 
  4. Bring the water to a steady simmer and then turn the heat down so that the water is barely simmering. Gradually bring the temperature of the water and oil up so that it sits around 160°-170°F/70°-75°C.
  5. Before combining the ingredients, measure the temperature of both the water and the oil—they should be roughly the same temperature.
  6. Carefully pour the hot water into the hot oil. Use a whisk or immersion blender to blend the ingredients until emulsified, and the mixture has begun to thicken and turn opaque.
  7. Allow the lotion to cool until it reaches 85°F/30°C. As the mixture cools, measure its pH using paper pH strips. If the pH is on the high side, add about 3 drops of lactic acid. If the pH is low, add a tiny pinch of baking soda. If you’ve made any adjustments here, blend the lotion again. You can also add your choice of essential oils at this stage.
  8. Carefully decant the cooled lotion into silicone tubes or small glass jars with lids.
  9. As long as a broad-spectrum preservative was used, your lotion should keep for up to 3 months. Store lotion in the refrigerator for even longer or if you choose not to include a broad-spectrum preservative in your formulation.

DIY Body Products

Looking for more DIY skincare products that you can easily make a home?

  • Super Greens Powder Mask
  • Herbal Skin Toner with Witch Hazel
  • Calendula Body Butter
Natural Homemade Lotion
Natural Homemade Lotion

Filed Under: Adamant Living, DIY, Herbalism

DIY Coffee Table Plans (Farmhouse Style)

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This post may contain affiliate links. Read full disclosure here.

Plans for this DIY Farmhouse Style Coffee Table make building a snap, and you’ll have a homemade coffee table in no time!

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DIY Nightstand (Step by Step Plans)

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Building a nightstand is a simple project, and it can be done in just a few hours with minimal equipment.  This small piece of homemade furniture can make a big difference in your day (and night), so it’s well worth the effort.

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These DIY plans for a farmhouse-style buffet table are easy to follow, and you’ll have a beautiful piece of homemade furniture in no time!

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How to Make Bath Bombs

November 26, 2021 by Ashley Adamant Leave a Comment

This post may contain affiliate links. Read full disclosure here.

Homemade bath bombs are an easy way to turn bath time into a luxurious spa day right at home.  Learn how to make bath bombs with all-natural ingredients, skipping the additives commonly found in store-bought versions.

Not only are they fun to make for your own self-care routine, they also make great gifts for loved ones that could use a little TLC.

Homemade bath bombs with roses
Homemade bath bombs with roses

Homemade body products are some of my daughter’s favorite crafts, and she absolutely loves spending afternoons crafting homemade lotions, body butters, soaps and salves with me in our kitchen.

Every time we make something together it turns into two separate mommy-daughter dates.  First, there’s crafting time together, but then we both know that a spa date is in our near future.

When she saw bath bombs at a store in town, she immediately started planning our next craft.

Homemade bath bombs are incredibly easy to make at home, and they’re one of the easiest homemade body products we’ve made to date.  They can be the perfect project for a girls night in, a fun craft with the kids, or just a great way to make something nice for yourself or those you love.

They can be made to add plain fizz to a tub, or you can add in botanicals and turn them into a tool for herbal self-care.  Choose the right herbs and they’ll help with skin issues, muscle aches, and even tension headaches.

What are Bath Bombs?

Bath bombs are, essentially, a means to turn an ordinary soak in the tub into something special.

Essential oils, body butters (and any other moisturizing ingredients), and dried herbs or flower petals are all pressed into a single ball, ready to be transformed into an instantly fizzy spa-in-one as soon as it hits the water. 

The thing about store-bought bath bombs is that they’re expensive, and often contain dye, too much fragrance, and (worst of all), glitter — which, as everyone knows, will live on much, much longer in towels, clothing, and on the skin — than the duration of any bath.  

I started making my own bath bombs once I realized a)how few ingredients and pieces of equipment I’d need and b)that I could tailor each batch to suit my skincare needs (or the needs of anyone else who might be receiving them as a gift). 

The much-desired fizzing effect of bath bombs is due to an acid-base reaction, usually between citric acid and baking soda, which are the two main ingredients in both homemade and store-bought bath bombs.

When a bath bomb is tossed into the tub, the chemicals react, causing a cascading explosion of fizzy bubbles filled with carbon dioxide.

Ingredients for Bath Bombs

If you’re someone who enjoys making other types of skincare remedies at home, you might have some of these ingredients on hand already. Shea butter is commonly used as a base, because it’s nourishing to skin and readily available in the skincare aisle of most stores. 

Mango butter, coconut oil (or any other favorite base oil) can be substituted for the shea butter, if you prefer.

Choose a single essential oil or a blend, or you can leave it out completely for a minimally-scented bath bomb.

  • Citric Acid ~ The acidic part of the acid-base reaction that creates a fizz in the tub.
  • Baking Soda (Sodium bicarbonate) ~ To react with the citric acid.
  • Sea Salt ~ Eases sore muscles, conditions skin and helps distribute the citric acid and baking soda.
  • Shea butter or Coconut Oil – Nourishes skin and helps bind the bath bomb together.
  • Natural colorant (such as clay) or herbal powder ~ Optional
  • Essential oils ~ Optional
  • Witch hazel in a spray bottle ~ To gently moisten the ingredients just enough to bring them together into a cohesive bath bomb.
Ingredients for Bath Bombs
Ingredients for Bath Bombs including citric acid, baking soda, melted shea butter and bentonite clay.

Equipment for Making Bath Bombs

The actual items needed to make homemade bath bombs are fairly straightforward, with the molds themselves being the only required piece of specialty equipment (and even then, you can make very sweet little bath bombs using measuring cups).

They make both metal and plastic bath bomb molds, which come in sets of two, and have them in a couple of different sizes. I like to buy them in multiple sets so that you can pack a few bath bombs at a time. 

Another option is to use silicone soap molds instead of metal molds. It can be a bit trickier to remove the hardened bath bomb mixture from a soft mold, but silicone is a great choice if you want the bath bombs to be something other than sphere-shaped.

Along with the molds, the other pieces of equipment you may need to make bath bombs are:

  • Measuring cups and spoon
  • Digital food scale
  • Mixing bowls
  • Mesh sieve
  • Whisk and spoon

Beyond that, you might want gloves too.  They real are optional as everything here is obviously skin safe, but if you’re using essential oils your hands will be scented for days.  Not necessarily a bad thing depending on the fragrance, but something to keep in mind.  Gloves also make cleanup a bit easier.

Lastly, you may want a food processor, coffee grinder or mortar and pestle to grind dried herbs and flower petals if you’re using those.

Fragrances

For me, the best part about making my own bath bombs is the control I have over the fragrance.

I don’t know about you, but I’ve definitely been gifted bath bombs in the past that have been scented with way too much perfume. There are many, many essential oils you can add, but these are some of my favorites:

  • Chamomile: soothing properties; good for rash, eczema, or other itchy skin conditions.
  • Cedarwood: sinus-clearing and calming properties; used for acne-prone skin and dandruff.
  • Lavender: calming and stress-relieving properties; helps fungal skin infections and other wounds.
  • Rose: anxiety-reducing properties; relieves PMS and menstrual pain.
  • Eucalyptus: decongestant/expectorant properties; helps clear phlegm due to cold and flu.
  • Ylang ylang: anxiety-reducing properties; used to relieve feelings of stress and anxiety.
  • Peppermint: energizing properties; soothes sore muscles, sinus congestion, and headaches.

Once you start combining essential oils, there are quite literally thousands combinations to be made.

As with any project involving the topical application of essential oils, I always advise a patch test before you begin making bath bombs.  It’s always possible to have a reaction to new skincare ingredients, and it’s better to test on a small spot…before climbing into a tub full!

Colors

Adding color to handmade bath bombs is fairly straightforward, depending on the materials used. To color the bath bombs naturally, without the use of dyes, I suggest using natural dry clay that has been ground up to form a powder.

Like other natural dyes, the color won’t be as vivid as it would be if a chemical dye was being used, but it can turn the bath bomb a lovely pastel color while adding the skin-enriching properties of clay.

Some examples of skin-friendly clays are:

  • Gray bentonite clay: Adds light gray color; clay is from volcanic ash and is a good option for oily skin.
  • Rose kaolin clay: Adds soft pink color; good option for sensitive or dry skin.
  • Brazilian clay: Comes in a variety of natural shades; good option for all-purpose bath bombs.
  • French green clay: Adds light green color; good option for oily skin.*

*Some types of clay are a rich source of oxides, which add color and are great for oily or blemish-prone skin.  Some types of clay have a notable smell because of their mineral content.  Give them a sniff before adding, and if you don’t like the smell then don’t add them, as they’ll add that scent to the bath.

If you’re not up to fussing with clay or you want more vibrant colors, you can also add skin safe bath bomb colorants, which come in 30+ shades.

Pro Tip:  Avoid using activated charcoal to color bath bombs, it just makes a mess!

Skin Conditioners

There are a few options for added skin conditioners when making your own bath bombs, keeping in mind the fact they’re added in fairly small amounts so the ingredients will be quite diluted the bath bomb is introduced to the tub.

I like to incorporate skin conditioners when I know I’ll be gifting the bath bombs, it makes them feel like even more of a special treat for my family and friends.

  • Bee pollen: Adds antioxidants and a cheerful yellow color; grind into a fine powder before adding.
  • Honey powder: Softens skin and helps heal damaged complexions.
  • Oatmeal powder: Always a good addition to any bath; soothes dry and itchy skin.
  • Milk powder (cow or goat): Helps exfoliate dry skin and ease inflammatory skin conditions.

Herbal Bath Bombs

Adding whole or ground dried herbs and flowers to homemade bath bombs not only looks lovely, especially for gifts, it can also impart any soothing or medicinal properties the plants might have.

You’ll only need 1 to 2 teaspoons of dried plant matter per batch; I like to grind the herbs in a spice grinder or in a mortar and pestle for a looser appearance. There are plenty of herbs to choose from, just make sure the plants haven’t been sprayed.  

The herbs linked to below are all organic, and they’re pre-powdered so they’re perfect for incorporating into homemade bath bombs:

  • Calendula: Flower petals; good for any type of skin condition.
  • Chamomile: Flower petals; soothes itchy skin.
  • Pine: Ground or chopped needles; opens breathing passage and soothes sore muscles.
  • Lavender: Flower petals; calming and helps induce sleep.
  • Rose: Flower petals; has astringent properties and is beneficial for irritated skin.
  • Rosemary: Ground or chopped needles; helps increase circulation and has antiseptic properties.

Generally, powdered herbs are added into the bath bomb mixture with the other dry ingredients.  You can also add whole dried herbs or flowers directly into the bath bomb molds before filling, and this will result in a lovely decoration on each one.

Adding roses to bath bomb molds
Adding roses to bath bomb molds before filling.

How to Make Bath Bombs

To make a set of 5 bath bombs at home, begin by sifting the baking soda, citric acid, and sea salt together into a large mixing bowl. I like to use a mesh sieve, but if your dry ingredients aren’t too clumpy you can just work everything into a fine powder with your fingers.

In a smaller bowl, gently stir together the melted shea butter (or mango butter or coconut oil, depending on what you’re using) with the essential oil, natural colorant, and herbal powder (again, depending on the ingredients you’ve chosen).

Slowly drizzle the melted oils and butter over the dry mixture, using your fingers to incorporate the wet and dry ingredients together into a uniform combination (there shouldn’t be any lumps or clumps when you’re finished).

It’ll still be quite powdery at this point.

mixing ingredients for bath bombs
Mixing ingredients for bath bombs

Once the mixture is totally mixed together, try packing a small ball into your hand. If the ball crumbles, add it back to the main bowl and spray 2 or 3 times with witch hazel. Try making a small packed bowl again, repeating until the mixture holds its shape.

Try not to overly dampen the mixture, it should stay as dry as possible throughout the process.

When you add witch hazel with the spray bottle you’re causing a very small portion of the baking soda and citric acid to react.  That reaction helps the mixture stick, but if you add too much liquid it’ll turn into a fizzy mess on the counter (instead of a lovely fizzy tub later).  Less is more here.

When the mixture is ready, lightly pack the bath bomb molds to the point that the molds are slightly overflowing.

Press two molds together, avoid twisting them to make them stick, and remove any excess bath bomb mixture from the sides of molds. If the contents of the mold refuse to stick, simply add everything back to the bowl and try again after 1 to 2 more spritzes of witch hazel.

Using bath bomb molds
Using bath bomb molds

To remove the bath bomb from its mold, give the top mold a light tap and carefully remove it. Let the bottom half sit for another 15 minutes in its mold, and then repeat the tapping and removal of the bottom mold.

Carefully place the bath bombs on a soft towel, this will help keep them from crumbling as they dry.

Let them sit and air dry for 24 to 48 hours before using or gifting. Homemade bath bombs should be used within 4 to 6 months.

Making bath bombs
Making bath bombs

Troubleshooting Homemade Bath Bombs

Successful bath bomb-making is more likely to occur when you’re working in a not-too-wet environment; it’s very difficult for the bombs to harden and cure if you live in a damp or humid climate.

However, since many of us live at least part of the year in these conditions, there are a couple of workarounds to this problem:

  • Set up a dehumidifier by your crafting space.
  • Let the bath bombs harden in their molds in a still-warm oven. Preheat the oven to between 150° F and 170° F, then turn it off. Prepare the bath bombs as called for in the recipe below and remove the top mold only. Place the bath bombs, still in their bottom molds, on a cookie tray lined with a clean dishtowel and keep the oven door ajar and the light on. Check the bath bombs every 4 to 5 minutes and flip them into the other mold, giving each bath bomb direct access to the warm dry it at timed intervals. The bath bombs will begin to stick to the molds after 20 minutes, so be sure to carefully remove before allowing to cure for 24 to 48 hours as described below.  (A food dehydrator also works for this, if you don’t want to use your oven.)
  • Bath bombs made with coconut oil or shea or mango butter (or any other oil or butter that hardens at cool temperatures) can be placed in the refrigerator for several hours immediately after being un-molded.

Cracking

Cracking is a common problem when popping homemade bath bombs out of their molds, and is typically a sign that that the mixture was too wet or too dry. If the mixture is too wet, it can crack as it dries and expands; in which case, try adding less witch hazel next time.

If your work area is dry and warm (say, from indoor heating), the bath bombs could dry too quickly and crack.

Crumbling

If your bath bombs are crumbling, it’s most often a sign that the mixture was too dry. This can be remedied by adding more oil, butter, or witch hazel to the recipe.

Alternatively, crumbling can occur when the mixture is packed too tightly or not tightly enough into the mold or measuring cup. I find that the latter is more likely to happen with bath bombs that were made at the end of the batch, when there isn’t enough of the mixture to completely fill a mold.

Soft Texture

If, after 24 hours, your bath bombs have failed to completely harden, the culprit is probably too much moisture (usually in the form of excess oil or butter). Try using less of these ingredients the next time you make bath bombs.

If you live in a humid climate, try plugging in a dehumidifier next to your work station.

Flat Bottoms

Bath bombs that are made in a mold can end up flattened on the bottom if they aren’t given enough time to harden or if too much witch hazel has been added. Give each bath bomb a solid 15 minutes to harden in the mold, which will help them hold their shape once removed from the mold.

After the allotted time is up, carefully place the hardened bath bombs on a clean towel to finish curing, to prevent crumbling.

Uneven Surface

A lumpy or bumpy surface on bath bombs is usually due to not mixing the ingredients thoroughly before adding them to the mold. Just like when you’re baking, all the dry ingredients should be sifted together before incorporating the wet ingredients. 

Bath Bomb Recipes

Now that you understand the basic process for making bath bombs at home, try your hand at any of these simple bath bomb recipes:

  • Lavender Bath Bombs
  • Cedar and Spruce Bath Bombs
  • Rose Milk Bath Bombs
  • Chamomile and Hibiscus Bath Bombs

Beyond bath bombs, you can use these same ingredients to make shower steamers, like these Eucalyptus shower bombs that help with respiratory congestion.

If for some reason you just can’t get the bath bombs to hold shape, no worries, you can just create fizzing bath powder instead.

Making bath bombs
ashley.adamant

How to Make Bath Bombs

A basic bath DIY bomb recipe and easy-to-follow method with endless options for customization.
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 10 minutes mins
Cook Time 20 minutes mins
Additional Time 30 minutes mins
Total Time 1 hour hr
Course: DIY
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 1 1/2 cups baking soda
  • 3/4 cup citric acid
  • 1/4 cup sea salt
  • 1 oz. shea coconut, or mango butter, melted
  • 1 to 2 tsp. natural colorant and/or herbal powders optional
  • 15 to 25 drops essential oil optional
  • Witch Hazel in a Spray Bottle

Equipment

  • [Bath Bomb Molds]
  • [Spray Bottle]

Method
 

  1. Mix or sift together the baking soda, citric acid, and sea salt in a medium bowl. Break up any visible lumps with your fingers.
  2. In a smaller, separate bowl stir the melted shea, coconut, or mango butter with the natural colorant, herbal powders, and/or essential oil (if using) together.
  3. Drizzle the melted oils over the dry mixture, stirring with a whisk the entire time. As you work, break up any clumps with your fingers.
  4. When the ingredients are completely incorporated, try squeezing a small handful of the mixture into a ball using your hands. If it crumbles, add it back into the main mixture and spray with 2 or 3 spritzes of witch hazel; give it another stir and try to make it into a ball again. Repeat this step until the mixture holds its shape without crumbling.
  5. Fill the bath bomb molds with the mixture, adding extra (the molds should be overflowing) and lightly packing the molds as you work.
  6. Press the molds together firmly without twisting. Use your fingers to remove any excess bath bomb mixture that spills out of the side.
  7. Lightly tap each mold and carefully remove the top mold. Leave the bottom mold where it is, giving it another 15 minutes before removing it.*
  8. Place the finished bath bombs on a soft towel and allow them to air dry for another 24 to 48 hours. Use within 4 to 6 months.

Notes

*If the two halves don't stay together, put the mixture back in the bowl and add 1 or 2 more spritzes of witch hazel and stir. You may that you need to add more witch hazel throughout the keep the mixture damp enough to be workable.

Bath Bomb Variations:

For an ultra-fizzy bath bomb: Omit the sea salt, use 1 cup citric acid total.
For a mango/shea butter-less bath bomb: Use 2 tablespoons oil (such as almond or olive oil) instead of butter.

Natural Body Care Recipes

Looking for more all-natural homemade body products?

  • Homemade Herbal Shampoo Recipe
  • Easy Melt and Pour Gardeners Hand Soap
  • Calendula Cream
  • Yarrow Salve
  • Rose Hip Lip Balm
How to Make Bath Bombs

Filed Under: DIY, Herbalism

Homemade Hand Sanitizer Gel (and Spray)

March 5, 2020 by Ashley Adamant 71 Comments

This post may contain affiliate links. Read full disclosure here.

Homemade hand sanitizer is surprisingly easy to make, and it’s a great way to fight germs when you can’t get to a sink to wash your hands.

Homemade hand sanitizer gel

…

Read More

Filed Under: DIY, Natural Health

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Meet Ashley from Adamant Living

Ashley Adamant Author Bio

Adamant Living is all about giving you the tools and resources to live your very best life!

My goal is to encourage you to focus on quality over quantity, and strive to strive for a healthy, all-natural lifestyle. Read More...

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