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Homemade Shampoo Bars
Ashley Adamant

Homemade Shampoo Bars

An all-purpose cold process shampoo bar made with olive, coconut, and sweet almond oil, plus a melt and pour version if you would rather not handle lye.
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cure Time 28 days
Total Time 28 days 30 minutes
Servings: 5 4-ounce bars
Course: Body Care

Ingredients
  

  • 5 ounces olive oil 142 grams
  • 5 ounces coconut oil 142 grams, regular (not fractionated), melted
  • 5 ounces sweet almond oil 142 grams
  • 2 ounces lye (sodium hydroxide) 57 grams
  • 6 ounces distilled water 170 grams
  • 25 drops essential oil optional

Equipment

  • Kitchen scale
  • Safety goggles and gloves
  • Heatproof bowls (no aluminum)
  • Kitchen thermometer
  • Stick blender
  • Silicone spatula
  • Shampoo bar or soap molds

Method
 

Safety first
  1. Put on safety goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Work in a well-ventilated room with kids and pets out of the way, and use stainless steel, glass, or heatproof plastic, never aluminum.
Make the shampoo bars
  1. Weigh the distilled water into a heatproof container. Slowly pour the lye into the water (never water into lye), stirring until it dissolves. Don’t breathe the fumes.
  2. Set the lye solution aside to cool to about 120 to 130°F. This can take an hour or more.
  3. Melt the coconut oil and combine it with the olive and sweet almond oil in a large stainless steel or glass bowl. Bring the oils to about the same temperature as the lye solution, within 10 degrees or so.
  4. Slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
  5. Blend with a stick blender in short bursts, stirring in between, until the mixture reaches trace, when drips sit on the surface for a moment before sinking, like thin pudding.
  6. Stir in the essential oil, if using.
  7. Pour into molds and tap them on the counter to settle any air bubbles.
  8. Leave the bars in the molds for 24 to 48 hours, until firm enough to unmold cleanly.
Cure
  1. Set the bars on a rack in a dry spot with good airflow for 4 to 6 weeks, turning them now and then, before using.
  2. Between uses, keep bars on a draining soap dish so they dry completely.

Notes

Coconut oil: Use regular coconut oil, melted. Fractionated (liquid) coconut oil needs much more lye and will make soft, oily bars.
Superfat: This recipe has a superfat of about 12 percent. If you change any oil, run the recipe through a lye calculator first.
Melt and pour version (no lye handling): Melt 1 pound of melt and pour soap base in a double boiler. Off the heat, stir in up to 1 teaspoon of oil or butter and up to 25 drops of essential oil (both optional). Pour into molds, let harden for a few hours, and unmold. Makes about four bars. Wrap any bars you aren’t using right away.